A quick jaunt to Oxford darrrhling..

More bikes than cars,

Earl grey and Lacrosse,

Jack Wills,

serious faces,

food market,

french,a breakup and politics over paninis,

quick sprint to Topshop.

Backstage at Ada Zanditon

What inspired the hair styling for the Ada Zandition show?

"We wanted to achieve was a very young and playful feel, creating quite a bit of texture, and then to keep it fresh we are swapped everything to one side and swept it in to a figure of eight twist. We created a very matted texture, but contrasted this with a beautiful sweeping wave at the front.

We didn’t want to overpower the clothes and swept hair aside a little to show the beautiful detailing on the shoulders of some of the garments."

What are the hair trends for Autumn/Winter 2010?

"The quick fix, ‘bad hair day’ plait is sticking around, it's quick, it's easy and always looks great so it is something the consumers will definitely wear. Also tampering with texture, a chemically over-processed, messy look… and colours definitely, pastel colours are coming in, blues, pinks and silvery tones that certainly reflect some of the forthcoming collections."

Words: Christine Pettman
Image: Eddie Blagbrough

Beekay

Beekay’s Autumn/Winter 2010 collection was inspired by trees, looking at their round circumferences and the shapes made from the branches. “I wanted to challenge myself by using a very simple starting point and seeing what I could do with it, and how I could develop it.” Evidence of how the circular tree trunk has inspired the collection is clear in the structure of the garments, everything is round: the hoods, the panelling and zips. Usually inspired by a story, Beekay used the pressure he felt for a second collection and cycle of his thoughts as a point of inspiration.

The collection is entirely black, broken up by denim trousers coated with latex glue to add a silver sheen, and a frenzy of YKK zips. YKK, the globally recognized zip company, have played a key part in assisting Beekay’s current collection and he is due to sign with them for further involvement in the future. The jackets and t-shirts are made from suede and jersey to create a very comfortable, wearable collection.

After working three seasons for Aminaka Wilmont, there is definite evidence of how this influenced Beekay, not just in the grungy, moody tone of the collection but also the use of print, which you can see in his t-shirts, and leather. Julius Garden, Beekays favourite menswear designer, has helped mould his designs in to a distinctive, experimental and wearable brand.

Beekay explained how the work of Vauxhall Fashion Scout is important platform when it comes to showing menswear as an up and coming designer, “I’m really happy with all the support and exposure and I’m looking forward to showing with them again next season.” His next collection is remaining under wraps although Beekay hinted that “bugs” may be an element of his next concept.

Words: Christine Pettman

Images: Eddie Blagbrough

Ada Zanditon catwalk review

Now a part of the British Fashion Council’s new Eco Fashion Mentor programme, Ada Zanditon is an emerging ethical designer with a distinct fashion edge. Her Autumn/Winter 2010 collection ‘Echolocation’ inspiration began with a dark, sultry nocturnal view outside her studio window during a winter sunset. The concept draws on the unique navigation of echoes used by bats, and their fragile, web-like wings.

With a bruised, underworld palette her signature architectural detailing formed echoing waves and body con curves. Despite the moody colours the collection was far from gloomy with powerful injections of fuchsia pink and innovative texture use from the peacock feather clad box heels to stretchy jersey that adapted naturally to the body.

The most beautiful piece was a stunning full-length midnight purple gown, the heavy satin cascades rippling enchantingly as the model swayed down the catwalk. Overall a sensual, sexy collection of beautiful, wearable pieces with an ethical conscience.

Sponsored by construction giant Gleeds, Zanditon expresses her innovative design and ethical awareness through a range of organic and recycled fabrics. Zanditon has also created organic cotton bamboo t-shirts featuring two unique prints from which 10% of the profits will be donated to the Bat Conservation Trust.

http://www.adaz.co.uk/

Words: Christine Pettman

Images: David Coleman

Ada Zanditon backstage

What inspiration did you take from the Ada Zanditon collection when creating the make up look for the show?

"I kept it really simple, usually I have a story or theme but I went with the texture of the clothes this season. Ada wanted it really clean and beautiful, drawing on the fabrics in fuchsias and deep plums with a metallic sheen. There is a strong lip I created by mixing various lipsticks from Benefit, who are sponsors, and added a frosted eye shadow in it to create a reflective texture. It also appears to look like the opening of a flower, as there is a almost tye-dye, painted look to some of the clothes. The eyes are clean and icy to reflect the winter season."

What are the emerging make up trends for Autumn/Winter 2010?

"There is a really casual look, like unkempt bushy brows - think Brook Shields before an eyebrow wax! But with beautifully buffed, ethereal looking skin and similarly in New York as well they want it to look like the models have done it themselves, very rough, edgy, and almost a little Eighties in that way."

Words: Christine Pettman Image: Eddie Blagbrough, make up artist Rachel Wood from AOFM

Street style at Sado

Dressed in a rabbit fur hat and hand-warmer from Portobello, Fiona confessed to hearing Lady Gaga may make an appearance during the evening.
Drunk Bert, a fashion designer based in London was wearing a real rabbit fur hat and plans to attend The House of Blue Eyes after party at Punk. Bert had allegedly polished off the best part of a bottle of vodka at this point.

Lewis Duncan Wood, fashion designer, wearing all vintage and his grandmother’s purse, had gossip so good he wouldn’t tell.

Images: Marsy Hild Thorsdottir

Jacob Kimmie

‘Pilgrim’, Jacob’s Autumn/winter 2010 collection was a theatrical black and white parade of long, lean silhouettes in leather leggings, chunky wool hooded knits and dragging trains. Inspired by ‘Modern, ancient temples, and ritual dressing as night’, set to gospel house beats and tribal dance music.

The gowns were silk, draping pools of black, with cutaway backs and intricate lace details and clustered feather earrings to finish the look. The models had their hair tightly gathered in to knot buns, dark, heavy eye make up, hidden behind ornate silver masks, and moody black veils. The finale, and highlight of the show was white, silk clad model carrying a baby, all dressed in white who stared back enquiringly at the entranced onlookers. Jacob produced a stunning, dramatic show of fierce, beautiful and wearable pieces, with intricate embellishments and edgy accessories.

Eudon Choi

Set to ‘Yippiyo ay’ by the Presets and Cheap and Cheerful, by the Killers, a mood of carefree, confidence introduced an upbeat collection that clearly exhibited Eudon Choi’s past experience and skill in menswear tailoring.

A series of stretchy dresses in various tones of grey and black formed a backdrop for the clean, sophisticated tailored coats and thigh high, peep-toe boots in army green, black and burnt brown leather patches, all clenched together with buckles and ribbon. The show held a consistent style of casual, wearable pieces broken only by the occasional flirty off the shoulder dresses, in panels of grey silks and bursts of fierce orange. Shoulders were prominent, with high hemlines and neat, clean silhouettes.

BEST IN SHOW -Florencia Kozuch

Originating from Buenos Aires, Argentina, Florenica Kozuch’s collection shows clear influence from not only her native roots, but also the Spanish aspect of her culture. The wide brimmed hats and moody black capes were reminiscent of a Spanish superhero. Shoes were decorated with unapologetic pops of red and yellow pompoms semantic of Mexican traditional dress.

Texture played a key part in bringing the garments to life. Backless leather dresses, with sharp, obtruding shoulders and beading detail, teamed with the ‘Zoro- esq’ hats reinforced a firm, powerful personality. Electric blue mohair dresses and fine jumpers soften, teamed with dream catcher necklaces and gold pendants suggesting Native American traditions.

Aminika Wilmont AW2010

The shoes in line for Aminika Wilmont

The show...

A moody strut of chunky knits, leather unconstructed shoes, sketchy dresses clinging to the indifferent sulk of the models. Wispy hair, grungy grays and unperturbed blacks.

Soundtrack was awesome, moody, dark, evocative. best so far.

Friday 19th feb. CAROLINE CHARLES AW2010

As the show began the audience were immediately swept away in to the upbeat panpipes, country and jazz music fusion that set the tone for a whimsical, cheerful collection. Beginning with a black palette, broken with spurts of pop green accessories. Caroline Charles's Autumn/winter 2010 collection was inspired by days spent in Istanbul and Venice. She fused between- war evening glamour in the form of diamonds, black lace and emerald velvets, puddles of saffron and chocolate silks with a socialite hunter prowling the catwalk in matching hounds-tooth, jackets and jodhpurs sprinkled with gold sequin details, furs and hunting hats. The detail of the garments was exquisite, and the vibrant cultures of the Istanbul and Venice emerged in pops of colour and delicate embellishments.The tone darken slightly as a 'bride' dressed in black announced herself at the head of the catwalk, with her 'gold-showered bridesmaids', marking the finale of the show.The resulting ‘woman’ that emerged from the collection was not dissimilar to ‘Larlita’, Stephen Elliot’s disruptive, unconventional, glamorous and feisty American character in his 2008 film ‘Easy Virtue.’

LONDON FASHION WEEK aw2010 baby!

WATCH THIS SPACE!!!

Reviews/coverage of:

Eudon Choi

Florencia Kozuch

Caroline Charles

Chelsea Rebelle

Dean Quinn

Felicity Brown

Aminika Wilmont

Ada Zandition

Beekay

!!!

"I am recognizing that the voice inside my head is urging me to be myself and never follow someone else, because opinions are all voices, we all have a different kind, so clean out all of your ears 'cos these are my views and you will find..."

A Tribe called quest X

"I am a camera, with it's shutter open, quite passive, recording, not thinking."

Christopher Isherwood, author of A single Man

IT'S LIKE THE IMAGE OF A GLASS MAN...YOU CANT REALLY SEE HIM, SO WE GONNA ROLL WITH THAT..

- Blockhead

"I LOVE THE WAY YOU CITY GIRLS DRESS, EVEN THOUGH YOUR HEADS IN A MESS" - Fratellis

ANNIE HALL

Genius! this pretentious dribble from the guy in the queue loses all validity as Allen's dry cynical witt proceeds to stamp all over his obnoxious regurgitations. Probably one of my favorite films, simple retorts but observations are spot on.There is ALWAYS someone like this when you watch/see a film, granted I more often than not, be one of them, but all attempts at appearing 'informed and intelligent' completely diminished by Allen's sharp responses, and still he keeps on with his own neurotic, self absorbed evaluations.

OLD SCHOOL INDIAN GENTRY

Beautifully composed gentleman who walked in front of me at Wandsworth station. Refreshing to see a touch of exotic elegance amongst the dull crowds of 'primarni' followers.