Ada Zanditon catwalk review

Now a part of the British Fashion Council’s new Eco Fashion Mentor programme, Ada Zanditon is an emerging ethical designer with a distinct fashion edge. Her Autumn/Winter 2010 collection ‘Echolocation’ inspiration began with a dark, sultry nocturnal view outside her studio window during a winter sunset. The concept draws on the unique navigation of echoes used by bats, and their fragile, web-like wings.

With a bruised, underworld palette her signature architectural detailing formed echoing waves and body con curves. Despite the moody colours the collection was far from gloomy with powerful injections of fuchsia pink and innovative texture use from the peacock feather clad box heels to stretchy jersey that adapted naturally to the body.

The most beautiful piece was a stunning full-length midnight purple gown, the heavy satin cascades rippling enchantingly as the model swayed down the catwalk. Overall a sensual, sexy collection of beautiful, wearable pieces with an ethical conscience.

Sponsored by construction giant Gleeds, Zanditon expresses her innovative design and ethical awareness through a range of organic and recycled fabrics. Zanditon has also created organic cotton bamboo t-shirts featuring two unique prints from which 10% of the profits will be donated to the Bat Conservation Trust.

http://www.adaz.co.uk/

Words: Christine Pettman

Images: David Coleman

Ada Zanditon backstage

What inspiration did you take from the Ada Zanditon collection when creating the make up look for the show?

"I kept it really simple, usually I have a story or theme but I went with the texture of the clothes this season. Ada wanted it really clean and beautiful, drawing on the fabrics in fuchsias and deep plums with a metallic sheen. There is a strong lip I created by mixing various lipsticks from Benefit, who are sponsors, and added a frosted eye shadow in it to create a reflective texture. It also appears to look like the opening of a flower, as there is a almost tye-dye, painted look to some of the clothes. The eyes are clean and icy to reflect the winter season."

What are the emerging make up trends for Autumn/Winter 2010?

"There is a really casual look, like unkempt bushy brows - think Brook Shields before an eyebrow wax! But with beautifully buffed, ethereal looking skin and similarly in New York as well they want it to look like the models have done it themselves, very rough, edgy, and almost a little Eighties in that way."

Words: Christine Pettman Image: Eddie Blagbrough, make up artist Rachel Wood from AOFM

Street style at Sado

Dressed in a rabbit fur hat and hand-warmer from Portobello, Fiona confessed to hearing Lady Gaga may make an appearance during the evening.
Drunk Bert, a fashion designer based in London was wearing a real rabbit fur hat and plans to attend The House of Blue Eyes after party at Punk. Bert had allegedly polished off the best part of a bottle of vodka at this point.

Lewis Duncan Wood, fashion designer, wearing all vintage and his grandmother’s purse, had gossip so good he wouldn’t tell.

Images: Marsy Hild Thorsdottir

Jacob Kimmie

‘Pilgrim’, Jacob’s Autumn/winter 2010 collection was a theatrical black and white parade of long, lean silhouettes in leather leggings, chunky wool hooded knits and dragging trains. Inspired by ‘Modern, ancient temples, and ritual dressing as night’, set to gospel house beats and tribal dance music.

The gowns were silk, draping pools of black, with cutaway backs and intricate lace details and clustered feather earrings to finish the look. The models had their hair tightly gathered in to knot buns, dark, heavy eye make up, hidden behind ornate silver masks, and moody black veils. The finale, and highlight of the show was white, silk clad model carrying a baby, all dressed in white who stared back enquiringly at the entranced onlookers. Jacob produced a stunning, dramatic show of fierce, beautiful and wearable pieces, with intricate embellishments and edgy accessories.

Eudon Choi

Set to ‘Yippiyo ay’ by the Presets and Cheap and Cheerful, by the Killers, a mood of carefree, confidence introduced an upbeat collection that clearly exhibited Eudon Choi’s past experience and skill in menswear tailoring.

A series of stretchy dresses in various tones of grey and black formed a backdrop for the clean, sophisticated tailored coats and thigh high, peep-toe boots in army green, black and burnt brown leather patches, all clenched together with buckles and ribbon. The show held a consistent style of casual, wearable pieces broken only by the occasional flirty off the shoulder dresses, in panels of grey silks and bursts of fierce orange. Shoulders were prominent, with high hemlines and neat, clean silhouettes.

BEST IN SHOW -Florencia Kozuch

Originating from Buenos Aires, Argentina, Florenica Kozuch’s collection shows clear influence from not only her native roots, but also the Spanish aspect of her culture. The wide brimmed hats and moody black capes were reminiscent of a Spanish superhero. Shoes were decorated with unapologetic pops of red and yellow pompoms semantic of Mexican traditional dress.

Texture played a key part in bringing the garments to life. Backless leather dresses, with sharp, obtruding shoulders and beading detail, teamed with the ‘Zoro- esq’ hats reinforced a firm, powerful personality. Electric blue mohair dresses and fine jumpers soften, teamed with dream catcher necklaces and gold pendants suggesting Native American traditions.

Aminika Wilmont AW2010

The shoes in line for Aminika Wilmont

The show...

A moody strut of chunky knits, leather unconstructed shoes, sketchy dresses clinging to the indifferent sulk of the models. Wispy hair, grungy grays and unperturbed blacks.

Soundtrack was awesome, moody, dark, evocative. best so far.